Travel Adventures in the Galapagos Islands

A female and a male giant tortoise approach one another other.(Are they flirting?) They reside inside an enclosure at Charles Darwin Research Station on Isla Santa Cruz. 

The Pace Picks Up in the Galapagos:

How Will I Ever Keep Up?

by Sally McKinney

The sun warms my skin during the half-hour boat ride from San Cristobal. Billy and I are both wearing swim suits, even though we’re older than the others, he’s “not a water person” and I’ve not been snorkeling for years.

Soon Darwin’s Scuba Dive boat drops anchor near rocky Isla Lobos. To me, the water looks dark, deep. . .and scary.  Timidly, I pause on the deck, planning my moves. After the others jump in or dive, I’ll sit on the top rung of the ladder, reach out, then roll off into a  shallow dive. 

Rudely, someone behind me yells, “Jump!”

Then I’m assaulted by a louder voice, “Just jump!” Surprisingly, I plunge into deep water and surface
promptly. Through some miracle, my snorkel tube stands above the water and I can breathe air.

One of the crew swims up to offer a life ring draped with ropes. I’m glad to hold on. My swim buddy leads me along a cliff wall where we move through a school of mauve, yellow-tail surgeon fish. On my right and above me, there’s a gray shape: a young sea lion. Beyond this one, another one, fully grown. Sea lions are often playful in water, but this pair is not. They move steadily away from us, yet I’m excited. We’re the first snorkelers from the boat to see them.

When my energy starts falling, I paddle back to the boat and pull off the swim fins. Now,  the problem. With my legs bent, feet on the lowest rung, I can’t pull myself up.

“Climb on up” yells a voice from the deck. I pull up again, harder, but still lack the strength. Ready to help, Billy and a boatman both pull my arms from above.  Soon I am sprawling across top rung, groping the wet deck, feet in the air. How ridiculous this must look. We’re all laughing.

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Billy and I had spent months planning this long trip with two weeks in the Galapagos Islands. Located in the Pacific Ocean about 600 miles (970 kilometers) west of Ecuador, the Galapagos archipelago measures 3,029 square miles (7,844 square kilometers). To stay within budget, we came up with this plan.  Fly from Quito to San Cristobal. Stay in town three or four days. Explore on our own, either walking around, with a driver, or on a day tour. Mid-week, travel by ferry from Isla San Cristobal to Isla Santa Cruz. Continue with land-based touring. Meet up with the cruise ship on Isla Baltra.  Take a Guantanamera cruise to eight more islands. Then fly from Isla Baltra back to Quito.

During that first week in the islands, my biggest challenge: to keep up with Billy! Unlike me, a near-sighted book reader, he’s a sharp-eyed outdoorsman. In fact, he’ll return to Tanzania soon after the Ecuador trip to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro.

On Isla San Cristobal, Billy and I enjoy walking from Casa Blanca to the nearby beach. Even during breakfast on the terrace, we watch magnificent frigatebirds, soaring over the harbor on thermals. From the pier, we photograph sea lions resting on the beach, the pups covered with sand. This coating of sand helps protect their skin from sun. During a day trip, I walk on a rickety bridge to reach a tree house high in a ceiba tree. Later, we hike to a crater rim where frigatebirds wash their wings by diving into the freshwater lake.

On Santa Cruz, we have an equally good time. From our lodging in Puerto Ayora, we take long walks to the beaches on Tortuga Bay. Along the maze-like paths at Charles Darwin Research Station, we discover giant tortoises behind a fence, napping. Just before we leave, one of the males awakes, lumbers over to a female then climbs on top, attempting to mate. People gather around, murmuring, clicking cameras. After a few minutes, the female moves off, so the male ambles away, soon munches on green grass.

From our lodging in Puerto Ayora, a long taxi ride followed by a short ferry crossing puts on on Isla Baltra. We meet guide, Javier Cadena and other passengers at the airport, then board the Guantanamera. We’d found the boat through HappyGringo.com . (I was thrilled the boat has a song!)

The first night on the boat, during the long cruise to Isla Genovesa, the rolling, bumping and bouncing of the small boat keep me awake, fighting off nausea. The first full day of the cruise, a light rain is falling. After breakfast, I ride with others—people from six different countries—in a panga (inflatable boat) to Isla Genovesa. Somehow, I’ve lost sight of Billy (who probably climbed into the other boat).  Unable to find a hand-hold on the panga, I’m afraid I’ll slip off the unstable, rubbery edge.

After we land on the beach, I wait while the others go snorkeling, then set off on a so-called “easy hike.”  The trail, marketed with white stakes, crosses rough, cracked dark lava field. After walking a while, awkward and unbalanced, I need to rest. After the others hike on ahead, I huddle on a rock like a black lump, wrapped in my poncho. During two weeks in these islands, I often pull a fleece over my swim suit, wrap a sarong around my legs (or shoulders), block wind or rain with my poncho, often wipe rain drops  off my sunglasses! When Javier and the others come back over the lava, three of the young people, wearing only brief swim suits and flip-flops, look chilled and miserable—yet do not complain.

Lunch on the boat becomes a welcome break. Afterward,
instead of a nap (there’s no time for a nap?), I stumble back into the panga. We approach a rickety platform built into the face of a cliff. From water level, I notice a series of large boulder blocks above us, worn smooth. Are these supposed to be steps? Beside these blocks, there’s a rough, wooden railing. . .with gaps between the rails.

“I don’t think I can do this,” I tell Javier.  Since we met only yesterday, he may not realize I’m eighty years old. “Oh, yes you can” he replies, while pulling me from the rocking boat. Along with unstable balance, I’m seriously afraid of heights. I land on my feet, upright, but teetering, too close to the edge. Regular dancing twice a week back home should have improved my balance, but—clearly--it has not. So I warn myself, “Do not look down” The next so-called “step” is too high for me, even with my long legs. From behind, someone shoves me. From above, someone else yanks me up. On my left, I hold on to the railing, whenever I can—and keep climbing up.

When I reach the trailhead, the rain has stopped. People from the panga hand me my daypack and a monopod that doubles as a hiking stick. Without help from the others, I would not have made it up those steps.

The filtered, overcast light transforms the landscape into a dream world. Near the trail, exotic birds, warming their nests, look back at me. Beyond the booby nests, several male great frigate birds, their red gular sacs inflated, are spreading their wings, trying to impress females. During the coming week, I’ll marvel at sea turtles in a mangrove estuary and stroll among red-orange crabs on dark lava rocks. Yet, this scene on Genovesa remains my favorite, worth all the effort.

After surviving that amazing first day, I stretch out—tired and shaken—on the bunk in Cabin Five. Without help from sure-handed strangers, I could have slipped off those boulders and plunged into the water.  Amazing that I made it to the trailhead! So I rest there, thankful for everyone’s help and grateful to be alive.

Of course, I love walking among unique creatures on these islands. Yet the schedule is “go, go, go” Breakfast at 7:00 am! Climb in and out of the panga. Take a two-hour hike. Then go snorkeling. Pause for lunch, do more hiking, more snorkeling. What am I doing in this watery boot camp? When can we all relax? How can I ever keep up?

It does help that Cabin Five is on a level with the dining room, a small bar, and a library/lounge. However, to reach Upper Deck, I climb up step-ladder stairs. Once I climb up, I enjoy seawater views and get to sit in a chair! If I plan ahead, I can enjoy a sunset gin-and-tonic in the chair. After ordering the drink from Senor Kleber, I climb up the ladder. The bartender mixes my G & T, and finds an agile crewman who carries my drink up the ladder.

Cabin Five, with its carpeted floor and ensuite bath, is the size of a walk-in closet in my former home. Billy and I fill the shelves with stuff, then stash duffels and daypacks in odd corners. Some floor space remains, so Billy and I politely take turns standing in this space.

Now and then, if he’s left something behind, Billy stands on the deck and calls through the window. 

“Hey, Sally.  Can you reach my sunscreen?” From lower bunk, I find whatever he wants, then hand it to him. He smiles through the window, “Thank you!” then closes the curtain.

As we adjust to daily life on the boat, I realize we’re getting great value from this Tourist Superior Class cruise. Our travel companions come from England, Germany, Switzerland, Australia, Chile and the United States. The meals are tasty, nutritious, filling. The bunks are comfy, the linen changed daily. Most important to us, the experience: walking among wondrous creatures on volcanic islands. 

Yet, during the long, dark bouncy cruises from one island to the next, I have problems with sea sickness. Billy, who wears medicated patches prescribed by his doctor, copes very well. Even though I’ve cruised on various small boats, I have trouble on this boat at night with the roll, pitch and yaw. After that first long, rough night (I’ll spare you the details), I start getting anti-motion sickness pills from the crew.

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During the morning panga ride to Isla Bartolome, the air is fresh, the sunlight cheery. On the way over, I photograph Pinnacle Rock and the great scenery. Yet, when I start walking with the others up the trail, I begin to feel weak, sweaty and aching. Falling behind, I start chiding myself. Why have I not trained for this?  During my late sixties, I hiked almost every day to research and write a hiking guide book. Here on Bartolome, the highest point is only 114 meters (374 feet)!  The others have all gone ahead, walking steadily, chatting and laughing. 

Could I be dehydrated?  Sitting on a step, I gulp all my water and munch  stale, salty chips. When I recall that Billy will climb Mt. Kilimanjaro after the Ecuador trip, I feel challenged to start walking again! Surely I can make it to the summit of Bartolome!  Eventually, I do join the others, happily smiling in the Guantanamera  group picture.

On  Itinerary One, the Guantanamera calls at Western Islands, including Isla Isabela. When the boat reaches Urbina Bay, the others jump into pangas to snorkel from the black sand beach. (Even though it’s raining?) Lagging behind on the deck of this floating home, I tell Javier I’ll stay on the boat. Javier’s nature walks and talks are excellent, and I hate to miss any of them. When I cancel, I’m afraid he’ll be upset. Instead, he says “I’ll send a panga for you at 3:30.” By 3:00 o’clock the rain has stopped and my water taxi has arrived. The bouncy little panga rides up over swells and down into troughs. What a thrill.

“Sit on the rim” the boatman says. Poised on the rounded edge, I pivot, plunge my legs into shallow water, walk onto shore over packed sand. During the hike above Urbina Bay, we find bits of coral and sea shells, remnants from an earlier, uplifted marine reef. To the east, the conical peak of Volcan Alcedo pierces the clouds. Along the trail, a land iguana with rough, textured skin stands in a clearing, as if posing.

All sixteen of us pile into two pangas to explore a mangrove estuary. Javier points to three species of mangrove: red, black and white. When the boatmen cut the motors, a few Pacific green sea turtles swim past us. Near Isla Marielas, I watch a flightless cormorant, young and inexperienced. I can relate to this, as he struggles in the water, crying “Ah, ah, ah”

“He’s been separated from his group,” Javier explains. The stray bird splashes weakly, swims toward a rocky islet, clambers onto shore. Standing upright, he shakes water from his frayed wings.

After I adjust to the routine, daily walks among rare, wild creatures feel normal.  At Punta Espinoza on Fernandina, I teeter across the raised surface of lava rocks. Reaching out with both arms helps me stay balanced. Masses of marine iguanas thrive here, more than we’ve ever seen. Sally Lightfoot crabs scoot about, then slip into crevices. On this remote island, where no human has ever lived, I
feel fully alive,

That night, Javier announces a party! The sun has set, the stars sparkle and frothy waves splash on the sides. White tables have been pushed back from the center of Upper Deck. Yet, this is not the usual party scene. Wet clothes dangle from lines above the railing. 

Our new friends occupy a circle of chairs, reluctant to move. Drawing on experience, Senor Kleber sends up pitchers of caipirinhas throughout the evening. Lead by the captain and crew, Javier dances early on, flapping his arms like a great frigatebird. Inspired by the recorded Latin dance rhythms, I can not sit still! By the end of this party, nearly everyone dances.

Since I’ve known him, Billy has been caring, supportive. Over time, this shy guy has gradually revealed a heroic side. Now he’s facing me on the dance floor. Pumping our arms. Kicking our feet. Tonight, I feel young. We are dancing!

When it’s time to go “home,” Billy and I mock-dance  across the floor.  From the top step of the ladder, we wave good night to our dancing amigos. Aware of the cachaca still sloshing through my body, I climb down backwards  and move very slowly.

That night, the boat rocks gently on the starlit bay. During the stroll to Cabin Five, we pause to inhale the sea air.  After my favorite day, we can relax, pull up the quilts, and sleep, sleep, sleep.

Sally McKinney has been a travel writer and photographer for 4 decades and has hundreds of travels
stories in magazines and newspapers.  She has also written several guide books. You can read another of Sally's travel adventures here on Travel Boldly about her learning how to travel in her 80s in Peru and Tanzania.

Here are some of Sally's recommendations for travel in the Galapagos Islands.

"We really liked the  www.HappyGringo.com tour company. They helped us find an affordable cruise on a clean, small, safe boat. After booking the Guantanamera through Happy Gringo, we met Javier and our new amigos at Baltra airport. This plan let us combine land-based touring with cruising (which is the only way to reach most of the islands). Our enthusiastic companions were a variety of ages and nationalities. Javier Cadena was an outstanding bilingual guide whose skills ranged from first-aid to dancing!"

"We found most of our lodging (in Galapagos and on the mainland) through www.booking.com  .
We’ve also used and liked  www.hostelworld.com ."

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Travel Writing on Location - The Era of the One-Man Band Returns to Travel Journalism by Jerome Shaw

In today's Travel Media environment you need to be able to do it all and do it all very well.

The era of specialization is ending, at least in travel writing. Honing your skills as s writer,

photographer and video producer is must for today's travel journalist. Photo via WikiMedia

This is my recent guest blog post on Travel Writing on Location:

The Era of the One-Man Band Returns to Travel Journalism

When I began my career in commercial photography and ventured into the genre of travel photography I was told that photographers should not try to write. They should concentrate their talents on the visual aspects and leave the writing to writers.  I suppose they may have told writers something similar about venturing into photography.

However, in today’s media landscape the ability to take compelling photographs and write dynamic copy go hand in hand.  You can’t separate one from the other and you should probably begin to hone your video production and sound recording talents as well because the era of the one-man band writer/photographer/filmmaker is back.

Whether you are writer hoping to break into new travel markets or a photographer looking for new places to publish your images, you need to make an effort to strengthen the weaker of the two disciplines if you are going to succeed in travel writing in 2014. Writers have to learn to improve their photos to publication quality for the image driven media outlets of today, and photographers have to learn to translate their ability to capture the visual reality of travel into well-crafted text.

Read the full post at Travel Writing on Location

Interview with Travel Writer Jerome Shaw

A few months ago I was contacted by a college student, who asked if she could interview me about travel writing. Each month on Twitter and Facebook I receive questions from people wanting to break into travel writing, so I am publishing the Q&A in hopes that it will answer a few of the most common questions that those starting out in travel writing commonly ask.

Travel Writing & Photography Workshop and Tour 

Santa Fe, NM  December 11th - 14th, 2014

Interview with Travel Writer Jerome Shaw

• How did you start off your career as a travel writer? 

Oddly, I began my career in travel writing as a photographer.  I worked as the photographer as part of a team with travel writers.  I often traveled with the writers and photographed the places and experiences that they would eventually write about.  As budgets became more restricted many publications began sending only one person on the assignments and it wasn’t the photographer. Having worked with writers on travel stories over the years I saw how they worked on location and then read their finished articles.  This insider look at their processes gave me excellent training in travel writing. I began to both photograph and write on many assignments. 

• Why did you decide to pursue travel writing?

I enjoyed traveling and found the creative process involved in writing very satisfying.  To some degree it was an economic decision to combine travel writing with travel photography because of changes in the publishing industry. 

• What obstacles did you face breaking into the industry?

I met with some resistance having been a photographer for so many years. Some publications refused to accept me as a writer.  Travel writing is a very competitive field, especially for the well paid assignments for high circulation publications.  The move from print to electronic media has changed the landscape of travel writing greatly.  It is now easier than ever to be published but more difficult than ever to get paid well for being published.  If this trend continues the best talent young will naturally migrate away from the industry.

• What’s the best way to establish yourself if you’re starting off freelancing?

Create an excellent product, on time.  You will likely have to finance your own travel in the beginning or concentrate on local destinations.  You may also have to also accept low or no pay but I recommend you do as little of this as possible.  And never with the expectation that once you get your foot in the door with a publication by writing for free, that they will eventually hire you as a paid writer. This rarely happens.  Once you establish that you work for free or low rates it is very difficult to break out of that mold as far as an individual publication is concerned.  You’ll always be their low-cost option and the better paying assignments will go to writers that established early that they expected to be paid. Though, in the beginning you may have to allow some of your work to be published for little or no money to gain clips/samples to build your resume, chose these instances wisely.  

• What advice would you give to new travel writers?

Think about the place where you live as travel destination and produce travel pieces featuring your hometown.  This is a good way to produce low cost material that won’t break the bank if you don’t get top dollar for publication.

• What are common mistake travel writers make in their copy?

The mistake I make most often is to tell my readers how wonderful or terrible the travel experience was rather than show them what the experience was like.  

• How did you first get published?  

As a photographer I broke in with a Aspen Magazine in Aspen, Colorado illustrating features.  My first writing publication came early in my career when I was asked by Windsurfing Magazine to write 600-800 words to accompany my photographs of boardsailing in the spring in the Rocky Mountains.  It was a laborious, time consuming process for me to write that article.  For the time spent writing I would have made much better money shooting photographs. For the next fifteen years I declined writing assignments or passed them on to my writer friends.  

My first travel article publications were for an independent small market newspaper.  They were creating a new travel section and needed a reliable source of content.  I had a backlog of content from years of traveling as photographer and had seen the necessity to do add writing to my skill set.  We were a great fit.  

• Do you think it is necessary to have an agent?

No.  

While it may not be the best situation for travel

journalists the reality is most have to hone 

their skills in both writing and photography. We 

are re-entering the era of the "one man band" travel

journalist.  Soon we'll all have to add video

production to our skill set too.  

• Do you think travel writers should do their own photography? Why?

Funny you should ask.  I actually do not think they should but the reality is that they must in many cases do their own photos.  Especially in the early part of their career.  I still enjoy getting an assignment to do only the photography.  It allows me to focus one thing and do it well while the writer can concentrate on getting the details right and developing a complex story.  However, many publications simply do not have the budgets necessary to support two people traveling to a location and time necessary for them to create the article as a team.  

As a fledgling travel writer, especially working for on line publications, you will certainly be asked to create or provide photography to accompany your story. Becoming passable as a photographer is the least you should do.  If you really want to put yourself in a position to be in demand you should learn basic video production skills.

• Do you do any other writing besides for travel?

Yes.  I write social media and marketing copy.  I write promotional copy for brochures and website.  These are often for travel industry clients but not always.  

I write a lot of photo captions. I also write how-to photography articles.  I have in the past written for film and television projects.

• What is ‘good’ travel writing?

Writing that brings the location to life and draws the reader into the story being told while providing useful information is good travel writing.  The best travel writing shows, rather than tells the reader what the travel experience was like.  Everyone thinks that they can write travel even if they can’t write a business letter or a decent short story.  The best travel writing is personal without becoming a “what I did on my summer vacation” style of writing.  Good travel writing is just good writing.

• What is ‘bad’ travel writing?

Conversely, bad travel writing is just bad writing.  Two issues that are often part of bad travel writing are the use of cliched descriptions and overuse of adjectives, especially superlatives.  

• What are the benefits of being a travel writer?

Travel. More specifically travel with a purpose built in.  When traveling as a journalist you get access to people and situations that the average tourist or traveler does not get.  The satisfaction of being creative is also one of the benefits of being a travel writer. For me personally, meeting new people is one of the greatest benefits of my having become a travel journalist.

• What are the negative sides to being a travel writer?

Low pay and high competition are two definite drawbacks to being a travel writer. Travel writing is not a a high paying field except for a few elite writers. 

People also often equate travel with vacations. Traveling as a journalist has very little in common with vacation travel and much more in common with business travel.  It is a bit like living in resort town where most of the people visiting are there for a holiday but you have to get up and go to work while they play.  

• Anything else you want to add?

If you love to travel — get rich.  If you love to write — become a traveler. ~ Jerome Shaw

Links to other interviews with Jerome Shaw: 

Mode-Moderne Journal - Travel Photographer: Jerome Shaw  Seeing The World Through a Lens  

Job Shadow - Interview with a Travel Writer/Photographer 

Four Things To Consider Before Taking a Summer Vacation

Getting ready for your summer vacation means more than just packing your bags. photo by Madyson Grant

Planning a summer vacation is an exciting experience. Individuals and families can lose sight of some important factors while packing and preparing for a trip. Failing to take certain precautions could result in costly or inconvenient problems after returning. There are four points that any person taking a summer vacation should consider before leaving.

4. Contact Information

Anyone taking a summer vacation should make certain that one or more people know exactly where the family is going and how to make contact in an emergency. A simple misunderstanding could result in missing person reports or worried neighbors. Providing a cell phone number or the number of a hotel will make it possible for family, friends and neighbors to call if an emergency occurs. Similarly, some notice should be given to friends online. This could be an email automatic response to new messages or a private message on social media. This will allow friends and business associates to plan around the trip.

3. Home Security

Families taking a summer vacation are leaving the home or apartment behind and unattended. Some home security precautions should be taken. It is best to find a friend or neighbor who will regularly visit the home to collect mail and check that nothing has happened. It can also help to purchase a vacation timer for outlets so that lights turn on and off to give the appearance that someone is home. The outside of the property should be cleaned so that it requires little to no maintenance and shows no signs of neglect. Also consider hiring a house sitter.

2. Insurance

Families or individuals who are leaving for a summer vacation overseas or who will be taking part in risky activities like mountain climbing might want to consider purchasing travel insurance. Travel insurance is a short-term policy that will cover expenses such as medical bills, lost credit cards and canceled reservations. Some policies will even pay for alternate travel tickets, hotel rooms and food if something unexpected happens during the trip. Although the policy might never be used, it can provide peace of mind when traveling in unfamiliar areas.

1. Bills

It can be easy to forget the bills when preparing for a summer vacation. Many bills can now be paid online but do you really want to be spending valuable pool time online paying your utilities.  All of the bills for the utilities and other services need to be paid before leaving on vacation. This might include paying some bills early so that they do not become overdue while the family is away. Travel delays and other unexpected events could extend a vacation by a few days to a week.  Individuals who do not take care of all bills before leaving on a summer vacation could return to find a home with no electricity or an empty storage unit.

Photo & story by Madyson Grant