Get Primal on the Island of Hawaii - Volcanoes National Park

Photo and story by Jerome Shaw

Volcanoes National Park in Hawaii is a primordial place that bring your instincts to the fore and lets your intellect recede. Standing at a crack in earth's crust allows you reach back into time and imagine when all the earth was much different than today.  A visit to Volcanoes National park is as close to traveling in time to a time when the our planet was forming.

Don't miss visiting the Big Island of Hawaii and you definitely should not miss the chance see the spectacle of fire and rock. The Kilauea Visitor’s Center is where your adventure begins at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (VNP.) It is a good idea  to stop in if only to have a chat with park rangers. The landscape at VNP changes frequently.  Trails are often closed to visitors because of lava flows or simple trail maintenance.  The staff at the visitor's center can point you to the best trails for the time of year and expected whether conditions.

Expert Tip: Ask about any special offerings on that day's schedule.  There maybe a special presentation by one of the Rangers or guided walk to a special area of the park. This is great way to get some in depth information about the park that will enhance your visit or get your questions answered about VNP.

Most people come to Volcanoes National Park tp see one thing but hope not see another. Everyone would like to see a lava flow but most hope they won't get a front row seat to a full-fledged volcanic eruption.  The staff at the visitor's center can point you to the best and safest access points to the lava flows.

Expert Tip: Ask for a map at the visitors center - you can't always rely on your cell phone map.

The Kalpana Lava flow offers one of the best and surest points to see the molten rock. The website Big Island Hikes offers detailed information on the route and details about distance, fitness level and what to bring.  The National Park service website has page offering lava flow viewing tips.

Expert Tip: Your photos of the lava flows will be more dramatic if you can plan your visit when the light levels are low near the end of the day. Combine a lava flow with a sunset for sure fire Instagram hit.

Another place you should see are the steam vents which are not far from the Kilauea Visitor Center, They are on the left side of the road drive less than a mile from the visitor's center. The cause of the steam is ground water that trickles down through to the heated volcanic rock.

Expert Tip: The steam vents make an interesting backdrop for photos of people or selfies, but you need not get too close.

You can also visit the sulphur banks. These are best visited when one of the Park Rangers are giving a walk and talk.  The Rangers enhance the sulphur bank experience and often provide information about Hawaiian Folklore. The walk along the Sulphur Banks Trail is an easy one and wheelchair accessible.

I hope you'll visit Volcanoes National Park as part of your Hawaiian Island Adventure.  Here is a nice video titled Living in the Moment on the Island of Hawaii to inspire your Hawaiian visit.

Travel Adventures in the Galapagos Islands

A female and a male giant tortoise approach one another other.(Are they flirting?) They reside inside an enclosure at Charles Darwin Research Station on Isla Santa Cruz. 

The Pace Picks Up in the Galapagos:

How Will I Ever Keep Up?

by Sally McKinney

The sun warms my skin during the half-hour boat ride from San Cristobal. Billy and I are both wearing swim suits, even though we’re older than the others, he’s “not a water person” and I’ve not been snorkeling for years.

Soon Darwin’s Scuba Dive boat drops anchor near rocky Isla Lobos. To me, the water looks dark, deep. . .and scary.  Timidly, I pause on the deck, planning my moves. After the others jump in or dive, I’ll sit on the top rung of the ladder, reach out, then roll off into a  shallow dive. 

Rudely, someone behind me yells, “Jump!”

Then I’m assaulted by a louder voice, “Just jump!” Surprisingly, I plunge into deep water and surface
promptly. Through some miracle, my snorkel tube stands above the water and I can breathe air.

One of the crew swims up to offer a life ring draped with ropes. I’m glad to hold on. My swim buddy leads me along a cliff wall where we move through a school of mauve, yellow-tail surgeon fish. On my right and above me, there’s a gray shape: a young sea lion. Beyond this one, another one, fully grown. Sea lions are often playful in water, but this pair is not. They move steadily away from us, yet I’m excited. We’re the first snorkelers from the boat to see them.

When my energy starts falling, I paddle back to the boat and pull off the swim fins. Now,  the problem. With my legs bent, feet on the lowest rung, I can’t pull myself up.

“Climb on up” yells a voice from the deck. I pull up again, harder, but still lack the strength. Ready to help, Billy and a boatman both pull my arms from above.  Soon I am sprawling across top rung, groping the wet deck, feet in the air. How ridiculous this must look. We’re all laughing.

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Billy and I had spent months planning this long trip with two weeks in the Galapagos Islands. Located in the Pacific Ocean about 600 miles (970 kilometers) west of Ecuador, the Galapagos archipelago measures 3,029 square miles (7,844 square kilometers). To stay within budget, we came up with this plan.  Fly from Quito to San Cristobal. Stay in town three or four days. Explore on our own, either walking around, with a driver, or on a day tour. Mid-week, travel by ferry from Isla San Cristobal to Isla Santa Cruz. Continue with land-based touring. Meet up with the cruise ship on Isla Baltra.  Take a Guantanamera cruise to eight more islands. Then fly from Isla Baltra back to Quito.

During that first week in the islands, my biggest challenge: to keep up with Billy! Unlike me, a near-sighted book reader, he’s a sharp-eyed outdoorsman. In fact, he’ll return to Tanzania soon after the Ecuador trip to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro.

On Isla San Cristobal, Billy and I enjoy walking from Casa Blanca to the nearby beach. Even during breakfast on the terrace, we watch magnificent frigatebirds, soaring over the harbor on thermals. From the pier, we photograph sea lions resting on the beach, the pups covered with sand. This coating of sand helps protect their skin from sun. During a day trip, I walk on a rickety bridge to reach a tree house high in a ceiba tree. Later, we hike to a crater rim where frigatebirds wash their wings by diving into the freshwater lake.

On Santa Cruz, we have an equally good time. From our lodging in Puerto Ayora, we take long walks to the beaches on Tortuga Bay. Along the maze-like paths at Charles Darwin Research Station, we discover giant tortoises behind a fence, napping. Just before we leave, one of the males awakes, lumbers over to a female then climbs on top, attempting to mate. People gather around, murmuring, clicking cameras. After a few minutes, the female moves off, so the male ambles away, soon munches on green grass.

From our lodging in Puerto Ayora, a long taxi ride followed by a short ferry crossing puts on on Isla Baltra. We meet guide, Javier Cadena and other passengers at the airport, then board the Guantanamera. We’d found the boat through HappyGringo.com . (I was thrilled the boat has a song!)

The first night on the boat, during the long cruise to Isla Genovesa, the rolling, bumping and bouncing of the small boat keep me awake, fighting off nausea. The first full day of the cruise, a light rain is falling. After breakfast, I ride with others—people from six different countries—in a panga (inflatable boat) to Isla Genovesa. Somehow, I’ve lost sight of Billy (who probably climbed into the other boat).  Unable to find a hand-hold on the panga, I’m afraid I’ll slip off the unstable, rubbery edge.

After we land on the beach, I wait while the others go snorkeling, then set off on a so-called “easy hike.”  The trail, marketed with white stakes, crosses rough, cracked dark lava field. After walking a while, awkward and unbalanced, I need to rest. After the others hike on ahead, I huddle on a rock like a black lump, wrapped in my poncho. During two weeks in these islands, I often pull a fleece over my swim suit, wrap a sarong around my legs (or shoulders), block wind or rain with my poncho, often wipe rain drops  off my sunglasses! When Javier and the others come back over the lava, three of the young people, wearing only brief swim suits and flip-flops, look chilled and miserable—yet do not complain.

Lunch on the boat becomes a welcome break. Afterward,
instead of a nap (there’s no time for a nap?), I stumble back into the panga. We approach a rickety platform built into the face of a cliff. From water level, I notice a series of large boulder blocks above us, worn smooth. Are these supposed to be steps? Beside these blocks, there’s a rough, wooden railing. . .with gaps between the rails.

“I don’t think I can do this,” I tell Javier.  Since we met only yesterday, he may not realize I’m eighty years old. “Oh, yes you can” he replies, while pulling me from the rocking boat. Along with unstable balance, I’m seriously afraid of heights. I land on my feet, upright, but teetering, too close to the edge. Regular dancing twice a week back home should have improved my balance, but—clearly--it has not. So I warn myself, “Do not look down” The next so-called “step” is too high for me, even with my long legs. From behind, someone shoves me. From above, someone else yanks me up. On my left, I hold on to the railing, whenever I can—and keep climbing up.

When I reach the trailhead, the rain has stopped. People from the panga hand me my daypack and a monopod that doubles as a hiking stick. Without help from the others, I would not have made it up those steps.

The filtered, overcast light transforms the landscape into a dream world. Near the trail, exotic birds, warming their nests, look back at me. Beyond the booby nests, several male great frigate birds, their red gular sacs inflated, are spreading their wings, trying to impress females. During the coming week, I’ll marvel at sea turtles in a mangrove estuary and stroll among red-orange crabs on dark lava rocks. Yet, this scene on Genovesa remains my favorite, worth all the effort.

After surviving that amazing first day, I stretch out—tired and shaken—on the bunk in Cabin Five. Without help from sure-handed strangers, I could have slipped off those boulders and plunged into the water.  Amazing that I made it to the trailhead! So I rest there, thankful for everyone’s help and grateful to be alive.

Of course, I love walking among unique creatures on these islands. Yet the schedule is “go, go, go” Breakfast at 7:00 am! Climb in and out of the panga. Take a two-hour hike. Then go snorkeling. Pause for lunch, do more hiking, more snorkeling. What am I doing in this watery boot camp? When can we all relax? How can I ever keep up?

It does help that Cabin Five is on a level with the dining room, a small bar, and a library/lounge. However, to reach Upper Deck, I climb up step-ladder stairs. Once I climb up, I enjoy seawater views and get to sit in a chair! If I plan ahead, I can enjoy a sunset gin-and-tonic in the chair. After ordering the drink from Senor Kleber, I climb up the ladder. The bartender mixes my G & T, and finds an agile crewman who carries my drink up the ladder.

Cabin Five, with its carpeted floor and ensuite bath, is the size of a walk-in closet in my former home. Billy and I fill the shelves with stuff, then stash duffels and daypacks in odd corners. Some floor space remains, so Billy and I politely take turns standing in this space.

Now and then, if he’s left something behind, Billy stands on the deck and calls through the window. 

“Hey, Sally.  Can you reach my sunscreen?” From lower bunk, I find whatever he wants, then hand it to him. He smiles through the window, “Thank you!” then closes the curtain.

As we adjust to daily life on the boat, I realize we’re getting great value from this Tourist Superior Class cruise. Our travel companions come from England, Germany, Switzerland, Australia, Chile and the United States. The meals are tasty, nutritious, filling. The bunks are comfy, the linen changed daily. Most important to us, the experience: walking among wondrous creatures on volcanic islands. 

Yet, during the long, dark bouncy cruises from one island to the next, I have problems with sea sickness. Billy, who wears medicated patches prescribed by his doctor, copes very well. Even though I’ve cruised on various small boats, I have trouble on this boat at night with the roll, pitch and yaw. After that first long, rough night (I’ll spare you the details), I start getting anti-motion sickness pills from the crew.

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During the morning panga ride to Isla Bartolome, the air is fresh, the sunlight cheery. On the way over, I photograph Pinnacle Rock and the great scenery. Yet, when I start walking with the others up the trail, I begin to feel weak, sweaty and aching. Falling behind, I start chiding myself. Why have I not trained for this?  During my late sixties, I hiked almost every day to research and write a hiking guide book. Here on Bartolome, the highest point is only 114 meters (374 feet)!  The others have all gone ahead, walking steadily, chatting and laughing. 

Could I be dehydrated?  Sitting on a step, I gulp all my water and munch  stale, salty chips. When I recall that Billy will climb Mt. Kilimanjaro after the Ecuador trip, I feel challenged to start walking again! Surely I can make it to the summit of Bartolome!  Eventually, I do join the others, happily smiling in the Guantanamera  group picture.

On  Itinerary One, the Guantanamera calls at Western Islands, including Isla Isabela. When the boat reaches Urbina Bay, the others jump into pangas to snorkel from the black sand beach. (Even though it’s raining?) Lagging behind on the deck of this floating home, I tell Javier I’ll stay on the boat. Javier’s nature walks and talks are excellent, and I hate to miss any of them. When I cancel, I’m afraid he’ll be upset. Instead, he says “I’ll send a panga for you at 3:30.” By 3:00 o’clock the rain has stopped and my water taxi has arrived. The bouncy little panga rides up over swells and down into troughs. What a thrill.

“Sit on the rim” the boatman says. Poised on the rounded edge, I pivot, plunge my legs into shallow water, walk onto shore over packed sand. During the hike above Urbina Bay, we find bits of coral and sea shells, remnants from an earlier, uplifted marine reef. To the east, the conical peak of Volcan Alcedo pierces the clouds. Along the trail, a land iguana with rough, textured skin stands in a clearing, as if posing.

All sixteen of us pile into two pangas to explore a mangrove estuary. Javier points to three species of mangrove: red, black and white. When the boatmen cut the motors, a few Pacific green sea turtles swim past us. Near Isla Marielas, I watch a flightless cormorant, young and inexperienced. I can relate to this, as he struggles in the water, crying “Ah, ah, ah”

“He’s been separated from his group,” Javier explains. The stray bird splashes weakly, swims toward a rocky islet, clambers onto shore. Standing upright, he shakes water from his frayed wings.

After I adjust to the routine, daily walks among rare, wild creatures feel normal.  At Punta Espinoza on Fernandina, I teeter across the raised surface of lava rocks. Reaching out with both arms helps me stay balanced. Masses of marine iguanas thrive here, more than we’ve ever seen. Sally Lightfoot crabs scoot about, then slip into crevices. On this remote island, where no human has ever lived, I
feel fully alive,

That night, Javier announces a party! The sun has set, the stars sparkle and frothy waves splash on the sides. White tables have been pushed back from the center of Upper Deck. Yet, this is not the usual party scene. Wet clothes dangle from lines above the railing. 

Our new friends occupy a circle of chairs, reluctant to move. Drawing on experience, Senor Kleber sends up pitchers of caipirinhas throughout the evening. Lead by the captain and crew, Javier dances early on, flapping his arms like a great frigatebird. Inspired by the recorded Latin dance rhythms, I can not sit still! By the end of this party, nearly everyone dances.

Since I’ve known him, Billy has been caring, supportive. Over time, this shy guy has gradually revealed a heroic side. Now he’s facing me on the dance floor. Pumping our arms. Kicking our feet. Tonight, I feel young. We are dancing!

When it’s time to go “home,” Billy and I mock-dance  across the floor.  From the top step of the ladder, we wave good night to our dancing amigos. Aware of the cachaca still sloshing through my body, I climb down backwards  and move very slowly.

That night, the boat rocks gently on the starlit bay. During the stroll to Cabin Five, we pause to inhale the sea air.  After my favorite day, we can relax, pull up the quilts, and sleep, sleep, sleep.

Sally McKinney has been a travel writer and photographer for 4 decades and has hundreds of travels
stories in magazines and newspapers.  She has also written several guide books. You can read another of Sally's travel adventures here on Travel Boldly about her learning how to travel in her 80s in Peru and Tanzania.

Here are some of Sally's recommendations for travel in the Galapagos Islands.

"We really liked the  www.HappyGringo.com tour company. They helped us find an affordable cruise on a clean, small, safe boat. After booking the Guantanamera through Happy Gringo, we met Javier and our new amigos at Baltra airport. This plan let us combine land-based touring with cruising (which is the only way to reach most of the islands). Our enthusiastic companions were a variety of ages and nationalities. Javier Cadena was an outstanding bilingual guide whose skills ranged from first-aid to dancing!"

"We found most of our lodging (in Galapagos and on the mainland) through www.booking.com  .
We’ve also used and liked  www.hostelworld.com ."

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Cuba Tour and Photography Workshop January 2016 - come photograph in this photo paradise

Cuba Photo Tour Dates for Winter 2015 - 2016 to be announced.

Tentative dates January 2016

Join me for a fun filled 8 day photo tour of Cuba. Take a learning vacation and see Cuba before it changes forever.  This tour is fully licensed for legal travel by U. S. citizens to Cuba under a people to people cultural and educational license by the U. S. Treasury Department.

Deluxe accommodations at El Presidente Hotel in Havana and equally deluxe accommodations in Cienfuegos and Trinidad.  We'll be out shooting in some of the best locations in Havana, Cienfuegos and Trinidad.  We'll also visit historical locations, art and photography galleries and meet with local photographer and photography teachers.  But be assured we'll find time to try plenty of Cuban food and fun too. This is photo-centric tour and is open to all levels of photographic proficiency and interest.  This is small group tour designed to give you a quality travel experience in Cuba.

The tour originates and concludes in Havana.  All transfers and ground transportation in Cuba are included.  Full details on inclusions and exclusions are available from Cuba Tour and Travel.  They can also assist you with round trip charter air flights from Miami to Havana.

Contact me on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/fotoworkshops

Jerome on Google+

I'm glad to answer your tour and photo related questions.

Travel Writing & Photography Workshop and Tour 

Santa Fe, NM  May 29 – June 1, 2014

Azores - The best place in the world to get wet.

Surfing is one of the adventures you can experience in the Azore Islands. (Video)

 Azores - The best place in the world to get wet

by Ben Whitmarsh

As a Brit, there are certain traits that I have been blessed with just as a consequence of my place of birth. Perhaps the most vital is the ability to have fun whilst everything around me is wet. This means that I along with my fellow country folk, are uniquely placed to offer unrivaled judgment on all kinds of activity that involves some degree of dampness. Therefore when it became clear that my trip to the Azores would involve a variety of liquid based activities, I licked my lips in anticipation. (I also like my lips to be soggy)

Before I regale you with tales of Azorean water adventures, let me give you some details about the place itself. The Azores is an archipelago of 9 islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. They belong to Portugal, so they are also technically the most westerly point of the continent. This means if you want to swim between North America and Europe, this is the best place to start. However, my suggestion to any would-be Atlantic swimmer would be to stick around here for a bit longer and fully experience the delights of the Azores.

Firstly there is some exquisite diving available, offering opportunities beginners to professionals with diving in an ocean bank guaranteeing both an adrenalin rush and lifelong memories, particularly in the south coasts if the island. The water temperature is not too bad throughout the year, ranging from 17º C to 24º C. In fact in winter it is common for the sea temperature to be higher than the air temperature.

But the two activities I am going to concentrate on here are canyoning and surfing.

Surfing in the Azores

Surfing the Azores: Photo João Miguel Martins

For a surfer, if you hear the word archipelago you should immediately realise that the surfing will never be boring. 9 islands mean a bonanza when it comes to variety. In some places it is rocky and steep and in others plain and sandy. All this adds up to waves to suit all tastes, and they are remarkably consistent.

Just as the divers benefit from constant moderate air and water temperature, so do the surfers. It means that the boarders are out and ready to go pretty much all year round making the Azores a great place for those who want to catch some winter surf.  However, don’t fear – this doesn’t mean that the surf zones are overcrowded – anything but. The Azores is still relatively unknown as a surfing destination. There are some famous places though with the "point breaks” and  "beach breaks” of the islands of Santa Maria and São Miguel achieving international fame.

~~~

Ben Whitmarsh on G+  and  on Twitter

The Box - a single parent swaps West Yorkshire, England for Kihei, Maui, Hawaii

The box  literally that was the inspiration for Annaliese Morgan, a single parent from West Yorkshire, England to book three plane tickets to Hawaii for herself and two sons.  It is a big leap from life in the United Kingdom to life in Kihei, Maui.

The Box

by Annaliese Morgan

As I throw yet another burnt pan in the bin, hearing cheers of “It’s another world record!” from my boys, I think: “Is this really the epitome of me? Is being the worst cook on the planet my sole legacy?” I can feel something else bubbling and erupting, something way bigger than a boil-in-the-bag rice, something no one else seems to understand, but me.

I phone for the proverbial take away and then it happened. I opened ‘The Box’. The box is covered in maps of the world and brass clips. It stares at me every night and every morning from the corner of my bedroom, begging me to let myself in. But the old friends’ voices of fear, logic, and “Yeah we would all love to do that” usually prevent me from doing so. But not this time. This time I open it; the physical box, and the closed box in my mind. I remember thinking: “the time is now”.

… Welcome to the Seven Wonders of Annaliese World.

Hideout, waterfall and cave off t
he Hana Highway, Maui, Hawaii.

Hawaii, London (UK), Gran Canaria, Los Angeles (USA), Greece, Italy and Japan - each with my own reasons why I need to be there. Each with their own wonder to discover. Each with their own culture to be found, treasured and shared with the world at large. I realise why, until now, this epic journey has remained in the box and why the “I’ll do it one day, when I’m rich enough, know enough, when the boys are older, oh, and what about the dog?” has played over and over.

You see, I never made the decision to do this; it never dawned on me that everything else in my life that I have achieved, whether it’s writing books, passing exams, or learning to walk again, a decision was made to achieve the result I wanted.

The very next day I booked three tickets for me and my two boys to leave for Maui six weeks later. Part of me didn’t even realise I’d just begun the journey of the Seven Wonders of Annaliese World.

Six weeks later, it’s 3 AM and I’m waking my boys up with two suitcases, three flight bags and enough excitement from all of us to supply the national grid. I ditch the nerves and apprehension that is swirling, unsure whether it’s that or the excitement making me feel sick. With one last check of documents and one final pep talk to the boys about behaviour for the journey, their faces so alive… and we’re on our way to the airport, swapping West Yorkshire for Kihei, Maui.

Rainbow Eucalyptus Tree off the
Hana Highway, Maui, Hawaii

Fast forward a few weeks and Maui has changed my life, and I intend to be back there soon. Without fail, expect to spend some $ here, but every one of them is worth it. Many people who live here rent half their house out; a cheaper option for accommodation that creates needed income for the owners. We made lifelong friends with the couple who owned the house we stayed in, and it was a way better experience than a hotel. 9-5 life doesn’t seem to exist there - which I loved - most jobs, of course, being outdoor-orientated. The happiness, caring, and a slower pace of life is everywhere in the Aloha state. They even drive slowly - compared to where I am from at least! It’s not without its stresses of course; the cost of living, the problems of burning the sugar canes, the oceans and marine life are taking a hit amongst others.

There are cheaper options for food (which can start at 8$ just for a gallon of milk!). Some supermarkets offer discount cards if you sign up and give your phone number. Costco near Kahului airport (around a 20 minute drive from Kihei) is a cheaper and key place for groceries. There are many other cash saving tips, so don’t let the cost put you off visiting this island that cocoons you in its magic.

Granny's Beach, Lahania, Maui, Hawaii

I still have many places to discover and explore on this small island. It’s shaped like a woman - look at
a map of it - it’s staggering! But here are a few of my
memories. Paia was funky; more hippy than Kihei. Just beyond Paia is Hookipa beach, the windsurfing mecca and the place for Honu watch. (I was invited to this courtesy of the Hawaiian Wildlife Fund; awesome guys doing awesome work. Up to 40 Green Sea Turtles leave the ocean and bask on the beach every day around sunset - an incredible sight to (respectfully) watch.

The road to Hana hides many waterfalls that are not on the main tourist list. They’re outrageously beautiful, although the famous hairpin bends which run for miles and miles made me feel sick! Personally, I didn’t like driving it. Do not miss the Rainbow Eucalyptus trees whilst on this road either. The native flowers of Hawaii really are what you see in the pictures; you can stare at them for hours. The Lavender Farm near the Haleakala Volcano I fell in love with, as I did with their lavender tea and biscuits.

One of Annaliese's favorite beaches
Baldwin Beach Paia, Maui, Hawaii

The beaches are a stereotypical tropical paradise. Two of my favorites were Baldwin beach in Paia, and Big beach in Makena, also nicknamed breakback beach… The waves break right on the shore line, causing many spinal injuries every year to those who are not ocean-aware.

There are many more experiences and places for me to ramble over, but don’t take my word for it - go! Spend time with some of the nicest (and healthiest) people I’ve ever met in one of the most enchanting places I’ve been.

I was told by a wise lady, “The Hawaiian islands call to you, and bring you there, not the other way round". I would agree with that statement entirely.

~~~

Annaliese Morgan is a leading veterinary nurse turned professional writer. Authentic, inspirational and funny, Annaliese has led a challenging life, learning to walk after a serious accident, living as a single parent, and then sharing her astounding journey via her blog. Her passions include creativity, inspirational writing, and world travel - she is inspired by cultures and enjoys sharing her knowledge with her readers. Annaliese on G+



Editor:

What is in your travel box? Where do you dream of going? What changes have you always dreamed of making?  Do you have an adventure like Annaliese's to share? Please share your travel desires in the comments below.

Road Tripping in Queensland, Australia

Champagne Pools on the coast of Fraser Island Australia. Pictured (l-r) are author Stephanie and European au pair friends: Besa, Jasmine, Luisa, and Anne.

UCLA graduate Stephanie Be made a bold move and traded a career with her “dream” live entertainment company in Los Angeles for a one way ticket to Sydney, Australia where she didn’t have any occupational offers, and where she didn’t know anyone. Four jobs and eight months later, she joined four German Au Pairs on a 1700 mile / 2700 kilometer road trip from Sydney to Cairns.

Road Tripping Queensland, Australia

Guest Posts By Stephanie Be

Byron’s Bay, Hervey Bay, and Fraser Island

Our road trip begins with a nine-hour drive to Byron’s Bay for a one night stay. The next day we drive four hours to Hervey Bay to join Wicked Travel, a Gen-Y tour operator that organizes camping excursions on Fraser Island. Queensland, Australia's Sunshine State, has strict policies that protect their lakes and beaches. Fraser Island, a World Heritage Site, does not disappoint! The white sand and clear waters perfectly mirror the blues of the sky, greens of the trees, and pinks of the sunrises and sunsets.

The whitest sand you’ll see.
Whitehaven Beach, Queensland Australia. 

Four white jeeps of travelers caravan around the island from lake to beach. There is only one shop, and the exclusivity to our group made for a surreally remote experience. Our “Fraser Family” is awesome. Mostly German, English, and Canadian, we quickly bond. Our time on Fraser Island seems like far more than a few days. The backpacker appeal creates a community of unity. Everyone looks out for each other, and the selflessness is inspiring.

Stephanie Be at Shipwrck Maheno,
Fraser Island, Queensland, Australia. 

Lake Wabby is part of Great Sandy National Park, and after a short hike we are met by a massive sand dune. A photo would deceive you into believing that we are in the Sahara Dessert. The Champagne Pools are my favorite. By far the most royal beach/ pool I've encountered (and I’ve been around the world.) Next stop is Indian's Head, a cliff that overlooks Happy Valley's majestic beach. We can see shark shadows among the deep blue waters. The Maheno Shipwreck is an iconic spot for some playful photos and a history lesson. Lake Mackenzie proves to be useful for sand baths and massages. The girls and I scrub our bodies and hair in white sand. Smooth results!

In between our sun-baths and lakeside naps, we camp out along the beach. Yes, we slept in tents. It is worth it. And, I drink The Goon, AKA boxed/bagged wine. So much for "life is too short to drink bad wine.” I guess life is too short to limit the possibilities.

Sailing Whitsunday Islands

Whitsunday Island, Queensland, Australia.

Leaving Hervey Bay, we drive Northwest 10 hours to Airlie Beach, the base for our next adventure. With a quick jog, Anne and I see the town: beach, shops, lagoon and marina. The town is clearly created for tourists and travelers. The nightlife allows for epic moments. I wonder how we will get by on sleepless nights.

Early the next morning, we embark on Avatar, a former race boat turned sail boat, for our Whitsunday Islands tour. The skipper and deck-hand looking like modern pirates, greet us. We set off and make our way through the fog.

Alas the sunshine!

Snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef, Australia

After snorkeling and sun-bathing, I close the day with wine on my lips, Sublime in my ears, and a serene sunset in my eyes. After dark we dance on deck, play ring of fire (Kings Cup a la British/Canadian twist.) A few rounds into the game some unnamed friends learn to "booty shake.” We welcome the sunrise as a group and make our way to the silica sand beach of White Haven National Park.

Dreamy.
Enchanted.
Glorious.

We took in the geographic greatness and infuse it with the Fraser Family liveliness! A pyramid of friends and many cheeky photos only mildly portray how incredible we feel as we experience White Haven National Park. With positive vibes, we go for another round of snorkeling. FYI: coral is alive and it moves. The captain teaches us about sea cucumbers and the British guys teach us (or try to teach us) how to play rugby.

Whitehaven Beach, Queensland, Australia.
Wicked Travel Australia group fun.  

Back on board, we raise the sail - by "we" I mean I cheer them on and take lots of pictures. The sun is setting as the bright moon rises. After a hearty "home-cooked" dinner by the Chef (Oh dear gluttony, how worth it you are), we snuggle up. Food-coma-ridden, we lay out on the deck star gazing. I see a shooting star. Dave drunkenly decides to organize a "magical moment" and has the whole boat in silence and solace by playing “Build a Home” by Cinematic Orchestra. The next morning we realize we have only been together a couple days yet because of the accelerated bonds built by our mutual travel experience, it seems like so much longer.

Aside from the romanticized reality, I am grateful to have met a special person onboard Avatar. I made the choice to travel while most of my peers are focusing on their professional careers. During this trip, I had the honor of meeting a new friend from New York. She is just a couple years older than myself and had worked for a PR company.  She had also stepped away from her job to travel. She seems really happy with her decision and I am happy with my decision, too. It is nice that there are others in the same boat as you, both literally and figuratively.

~~~

As a new blogger, Stephanie writes on travel for Huffington Post, Elite Daily, Thought Catalog, WayFaring.me, and Bikini.com. She loves to share her travel tips and experiences. Catch her on Facebook & Twitter  Her blog is TravelBreak.net

Photos © TravelBreak.net

One Day in St. Croix is Never Enough

Colorful Carnival characters are only one of the many reasons to visit the Caribbean island of St. Croix, the largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands. Whether you'd like to snorkel in the clear warm waters off Buck Island or tramp through the historical ruins of St George Village Botanical Gardens or loll on a sugar sand beach, St. Croix gives you plenty of options. Photos by Joe Tolley for TravelBoldly.com

One Day in St. Croix is Never Enough 

Guest Post by Kristy Tolley

“Oh, my gosh! Did you see that nurse shark?” My daughter squealed in delight. “That was so cool!”

I never would have expected my kids (at the time, ages eight and five) to be so thrilled about learning about marine life. However, that was just one of several pleasant surprises we experienced during our family’s visit to St. Croix.

A stretch of empty beach beckons on Buck Island St. Croix

As a port of call for our seven-day cruise, St. Croix’s bucolic landscape beckoned us to come explore. Being the unconventional cruisers we are, we opted to plan our own excursions for the day. Our goal: pack as much in as we possibly could before the ship left the port!

Our first diversion was snorkeling on Buck Island. Located off St. Croix’s northeast shore, it was declared a National Monument in 1961. A number of local companies specialize in half or full day tours, yet the trail is protected by the park system so it’s never over crowded. We snorkeled with Big Beard’s Adventure Tours, and had a remarkable experience.

Ready for snorkeling off Buck Island, St. Croix

Although my kids were great swimmers, I was a little apprehensive how they would fare in open (and somewhat choppy) waters with little prior practice. My fears were quickly abated thanks to knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides. We spotted coral fish, angelfish, and a nurse shark while floating above stunning brain and elk horn coral. I believe my oldest daughter’s passion to pursue a career in marine science was fueled by this early encounter.

Our next stop was the St. George Village Botanical Garden in Frederiksted. What an unexpected gem! The garden is on the National Register of Historic Places, and is situated on the remains of a 19th century Danish sugar cane plantation. The gardens are alive with more than 1,500 native and exotic species of flora. A tour here reveals ornamental ferns, bromeliads, heritage gardens, a naturalized forest, and other treasures.

Cactus in St. George Village Botanical Gardens St. Croix

As cool as the ghostly remains of buildings looked, I honestly thought the girls would lose interest quickly. Once again, I was proven wrong. David Hamada, the garden’s Horticultural Director, was well versed and engaging – pointing out countless natural wonders. The Stapelia plant especially intrigued them. This low growing succulent resembles a cactus and hails from Africa. Its scent, that resembling rotting flesh, attracts different kinds of pollinators (and apparently my kids).

Historical treasures in the garden include artifacts ranging from pre-Columbus through the plantation era. A few of the restored buildings to see are the Blacksmith Shop, the Overseer’s House and the Great Hall, among others.

View of  Christiansted from the water,  St. Croix. 

Had our visit landed on a second Saturday, we could have enjoyed the special kids’ programs from 9 am until noon. Workshops like cooking (finding ingredients throughout the gardens), chocolate making and the like are offered. Oh well - just another reason to book a return trip to St. Croix!

While this brood certainly enjoys outdoor action and soaking up some history, we do appreciate a little “chillaxing time” as much as the next folks. Chenay Beach and Rainbow Beach are perfect family hangouts. Chenay provides shallow water and lots of shells to hunt. Its palm-lined shore offers ample shade. The kids can even go nuts on the play set. Rainbow Beach is like hanging out at a friend’s house for a barbecue. Volleyball, swimming and snorkeling are on hand on this white sand beach. Often, you can enjoy live music as well.

Although our time on land was waning, refueling with local cuisine was a “must do”. Our group

View from Rum Runners' deck in Christiansted, St. Croix.

enjoyed the casual fare and excellent view at Rum Runners in Christiansted. Voted best for just about everything by tourists and locals, Rum Runners serves up a mean fish taco and sumptuous conch fritters. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner – and given more time, I would have sampled all three. Live steel pan music added to the island vibe, and made us sad to realize our day on St. Croix had come to an end.

I wasn’t surprised how quickly my family fell in love with the island. I got bit by the St. Croix bug years ago, and was excited to finally share it with them. After we boarded the ship and watched St. Croix fade into the distance from our cabin balcony, I asked my daughters when they wanted to go back. Their response was a resounding “Now!” Ditto, girls.

~~~

Kristy Tolley, from Tega Cay, South Carolina, is a freelance travel copywriter with a soft spot for the Caribbean. Her blog reflects that love - and other amusements. She's no stranger to traveling boldly. She's traveled with children, and has forgotten to pack deodorant on occasion. You can follow her on Twitter @KristyTolley to share ideas on what she should write about next - or share packing tips.

Greece: Captain Corelli’s Mandolin

Myrtos Beach on the island Kefalonia in the Ionian Islands of Greece. 

Greece: Captain Corelli’s Mandolin

Guest Post by Liz Alvey

Bougainvillea in Fiscardo

For many years when I travelled to Greece, it seemed like every other person on the journey to Kefalonia was reading Louis de Bernieres’ novel, Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.  Knowing my passion for the place, a friend bought me a copy. Never one to follow the crowd, I resisted reading it. Then one winter’s day, in need of sun and light in my life, I settled down to read it.  And devoured it in one sitting.

I will admit that the first 50 pages created doubts. But then I was hooked. The painful love story of the Italian Captain and the doctor’s daughter could have been just another romance. But the setting against the brutality of the Second World War and the hardships faced by the islanders adds another dimension. Whilst the story may be fiction, I know from the recollections of elderly Kefalonians, that the consequences of resistance and the punishments meted out are still keenly felt, decades later.

Lighthouse Fiscardo, Kefalonia

As always it is the characters that hold me fast.  The quixotic Corelli, the passionate Pelagia, the pragmatic Doctor Yannis.  And perhaps most of all the loyal and tragic Carlo.

I didn’t visit Kefalonia whilst they were making the film of the book, which came out in 2001.  Not deliberate, just a desire to explore some new Greek horizons.  Although the director, John Madden, apparently looked at several potential locations, in the end, the film was shot largely in Kefalonia.  A purpose built set was created near Sami, the island’s main port. The beautiful Antisamos beach served as the location for the Italian camp. Several key scenes were filmed at Myrtos, perhaps the most iconic beach in Greece and one of the most photographed beaches in the world.

Lighthouse near Fiscardo

On my next visit, I heard of grandfathers taking their grandchildren to visit the set. It was by all accounts a memory-jerking re-creation of the formerly beautiful and elegant capital of Argostoli before it was flattened by the 1953 earthquake, which features at the end of the novel.

Sadly, to me at least, the film was not as accurate in its re-creation of the book’s story and themes. And neither Penelope Cruz nor Nicholas Cage fulfilled my mental image of Pelagia and Antonio – not their fault, of course.  I know that no film can replicate the detail of a novel, but for me the tone was too different and the story too focused on the central love story, to the exclusion of some of the subtler sub-plots.

View of Agia Efimia from Sami 

Kefalonia, Greece

But what it did achieve, magnificently, was a stunning visual record of the glories of the landscape and villages of Kefalonia.  And so, in the dank and damp British winter, I regularly re-run the film, skip through the plot and revel in recognizing the mountains, the sea and most of all the glorious, intense light.

The film now acts as an appetizer for your trip to Kefalonia.

Liz Alvey has had an almost 20 year love affair with Greece. As well as repeated visits to her beloved Kefalonia, she has travelled to many other Ionian and Aegean Islands and to Athens.

More Travel Boldly posts on Greece:

Greece: A Kefalonia Love Affair
Greece: adventures in the Ionian Islands

Greece: Captain Corelli’s Mandolin