After Slow Travel in Tanzania - We Went Poco y Poco in Peru. You are never too old to travel.

A giraffe gawks back at author Sally McKinney on her safari in Tanzania. During her trip to East Africa Sally discovered that even in her 9th decade there is a way to still travel and enjoy it. Photo by Sally McKinney

Editors note: This guest post is by my long time friend and collaborator Sally McKinney. We me met in New Zealand over 25 years ago. A few years later we began to work together as a writer / photographer team on many great adventures. Having Sally share her secrets of slow travel is a great honor for me and for Travel Boldly. I maybe telling tales out of school, but for the record Sally turned 80 this last birthday and she shows no sign of slowing down.  OK, maybe just little. ~JS

New Rules for visiting Machu Picchu Peru. 

After Slow Travel in Tanzania. We Went Poco y Poco in Peru.

Guest Post by Sally McKinney

When I was younger, I traveled all over. Watched leaping dolphins from the deck of a sailing ship. Paddled a dugout canoe. Soared above volcanic lakes in an open-cockpit biplane. Danced under starry skies to throbbing tribal drums.

Zebra keep a wary eye out for trouble as they graze.  The 

safari took us through the Serengeti eco-system of East Africa

Then I got older.

As my energy waned, an “If It’s Tuesday. . .” trip became too stressful. Yet, giving up travel made me depressed. All of that changed in 2011, when I was invited to East Africa. While planning this seven-week adventure, I had to re-think my needs. The solution I came up with? Slow Travel!

PLAN FOR PEOPLE TO HELP

Two people I already knew would be also be in Tanzania for volunteer work.  One of them was Walter Miya, Tour Director, Safari Arts Expeditions. The other person would be Billy. He was (and still is) a cute, older white-haired guy from my home town.

A woman walks through the village market near Serengeti
National Park, Tanzania, Africa. 

Born in Tanzania, Walter tuned into my needs really well. Since my cloudier vision made it harder to find ticket booths, taxi stands, or departure gates, Walter found someone to meet me after a ride on the ferry, bus, or plane. Walter also helped me plan a series of home stays. While staying with middle-class Tanzanians, I could recover from travel fatigue, follow active periods with rest and enjoy leisurely meals.

By living more like the Africans than like a tourist, I learned to

SPEND ONLY ON WHAT’S IMPORTANT

After I arrived in Tanzania, Walter’s large family showed me warm hospitality. In Zanzibar, Dar es Salaam, Arusha, Marangu, and Mwanza, I slept on each family’s fanciest sheets in an air-cooled guest room.  Each morning, someone rose early to boil water, then mix hot with cool so I could bathe. Between meals, my hosts offered me snacks and cold drinks.

A mother elephant and her calf amble by our safari jeep.

Staying with African families—and making new friends—meant more to me than luxurious hotels. For this trip, I could not afford new clothes, so I packed the faded, knit tee shirts and khaki slacks I usually wore.  None of my hosts seemed to mind!

MORE INFORMATION HELPED REDUCE WORRIES

While staying with Joanne and Martin Miya in Mwanza, fatigue from previous travel caught up with me. Each night after dinner, I slipped off to my room, hoping to sleep. Instead, I slapped at a lone mosquito, buzzing outside the net while I lay awake, worrying. . .

Sally, Billy, Walter and the gang from Safari Arts 

Expeditions pose for a photo.

Twenty-seven years before, after a rainy five-day trek with the Maoris in New Zealand, I’d given up camping. After hiking all day in the rainforest, I could hardly sleep on the cold, hard ground. Knowing that, I’d promised Walter and Billy I’d go camping with them next week.

“Camping is the best way to see the animals,” Walter explained. And a camping safari was all I could afford. Yet, how could I sustain my energy if I could not sleep in the tent.  And, how could I possibly help with all the camping chores? Even worse, failing to be a good camper would—quite likely—damage my friendship with Walter. . .and with Billy, too.

During one last dinner with Joanne and Martin (Walter’s father), Martin assured me that Walter’s staff would put up the tents, also buy, cook and serve all the food.  All I had to do was show up, then eat, sleep and ride around in the jeep snapping pictures. How hard could that be?

An antelope preens while the herd is at rest on the grasslands

of the Serengeti of Tanzania, East Africa. 

What a difference to have this new information! The day I climbed onto that jeep—and saw Billy sitting across the aisle—I felt great!

RELAX AND ENJOY THE RIDE

Walter told us to rise early next day for a game drive. To help me relax and fall asleep more easily, I took a mild sleeping tablet, washed down with bottled water. Just before dawn, I awoke to chirping birds. The sky was a vacuous gray. Beyond the tents, wild African buffalo grazed on the savanna, lowing like cattle.

On that Serengeti morning, we bounced along one of Tanzania’s roughest roads. Barely awake, and craving a second coffee, I gazed out the open window. A rosy, crescent sun seemed to float behind an acacia tree. Using a monopod (that also worked as a trekking pole), I steadied my camera to shoot a gawky giraffe.

The ever-smiling cook, Elisante Hambu.

Driver Charles Msaky spotted a leopard napping on a branch, half-hidden in dappled shade. Through the windscreen, I saw elephants cross the road—single file—as if on parade.

Using impressive tracking skills, Walter and Charles took us to watch a pride of lions. I felt privileged, wondering how many people in their lives ever get to watch lions in the wild, tending their cubs. . .then go back for breakfast.

SUSTAIN GOOD HEALTH WHILE TRAVELING

The cook, Elisante Hambu, served delicious food, using many locally-grown fresh vegetables. Those healthy meals—plus copious amounts of bottled water-- helped sustain my energy. For exercise, I’d already asked Walter to take us dancing (my favorite exercise back home). Surprisingly, he took my request
seriously.

Walter Miya Tour Director, Safari Arts 

Expeditions serving food on safari.

Back in Arusha, a group of us rode one night to a local club. Masaai attendants, wrapped in red-checked  blankets, waved us into the parking lot.

“Not a tourist place,” Walter assured me. “This is where middle-class Africans go.”

When I looked around, I saw that Billy and I were the only “mazungus” (white people/foreigners) in the club. Even so, many of the other guests stopped by our table to say “Karibu” (welcome in Swahilii). After I downed an icy gin and tonic, the hot drums of the African dance band enticed me onto the dance floor. Walter, who is perhaps half my age, danced like a wild man that night. Kicking his long legs askew, he rocked his lean body, whipping those “dreads.” Clearly, I could not keep up with

him. . .but it was great fun to try.

Makonde band lends its African rhythm to our safari. 

Photo credit Alice Fagin

FIND A TRAVEL COMPANION

Before leaving Tanzania, Billy and I dined on Indian food at the African hotel. “Where shall we go next?” Billy asked. Secretly pleased, I had no ready reply. “I’ve always wanted to see Machu Picchu,” he continued. Not quite sure whether this was an invitation—but eager to be prepared—I began reading about Peru after we got home.

ADOPT SLOW TRAVEL FOR THE NEXT TRIP

Machu Picchu is a place every traveler seems to long to visit.

Even if you are in your 80s. Sally says that's not an excuse to 

miss one of the great travel destinations in the world.

By the following summer, Billy and I were ready for Peru! My biggest worry: whether or not I’d be able to climb around the ruins of Machu Picchu.

While planning that day, I applied the Slow Travel principles I’d learned in East Africa. The night before, I visualized success—then got eight good hours of sleep. Next morning, taking a later shuttle to the ruins allowed me to eat a leisurely breakfast (and tap the energy from this food.)

Our excellent, English-speaking guide worked out a suitable climb/walk/rest pace for me. My monopod was not allowed at the site, but the guide found me a bamboo hiking stick!  At the top, we enjoyed marvelous views. Sitting on a wall, I drank water and munched energy bars. While Billy hiked on to the Sun Gate, I relaxed with a “power nap” on a grassy terrace.

The steps leading up to the caretaker's hut at 

Machu Picchu World Heritage site, 

Climbing down the treacherous, rubble-strewn steps was the toughest part. Much safer to go slowly, go cautiously, I decided. I used the bamboo pole for balance and, now and then, grabbed the forearm of a helpful stranger.

GRATEFUL FOR EVERY THING THAT’S STILL POSSIBLE

Wherever did I get the idea I had to “retire” from travel?

After the shuttle ride back to Aguas Calentes, we had much to celebrate! While Billy drank cerveza, I sipped a pisco sour. On the menu: papa rellena, fresh grilled  trout, Peruvian pizza, sweet flan. When the Peru Inkas began to play—hot and fast—I could have danced with joy. Poco y poco, we had conquered Machu Picchu!

~~~

Sally McKinney poses for a photo on her trip to Tanzania,

East Africa with her new friends, the Masai guards. 

Sally McKinney never dreamed that at age 80 she'd be living in Bloomington, Indiana, dancing twice a week at the local pub, and learning to cook with spices and herbs. . .while trying to book a holiday cruise around the Galapagos on a 50-foot sailboat. 

Over the years her travel articles and photographs have appeared in publications across North America and around the Pacific Rim. Travel in 47 countries (so far) has given her a unique appreciation for life on this planet. 

After writing all those articles--plus six travel guidebooks--she's now working on a memoir about how travel experiences have encouraged personal growth. In occasional pieces for ExploreDance.com, HighOnAdventure.com and now TravelBoldly, she encourages travelers to value diverse cultures, sustain the natural environment and support local economies. 

Here's her advice to other travelers who've grown older. "Even if you're losing your eyesight, don't lose your adventurous spirit. Keep traveling!"

You can reach Sally at GoingSlowerNow@Gmail.com

More post on Peru here on Travel Boldly

New Rules for visiting Machu Picchu Peru. 

 

After Slow Travel in Tanzania - We Went Poco y Poco in Peru. You are never too old to travel. 

The King of the Incas. Inti Raymi / The Festival of the Sun at Sacsayhuamán in Cusco, Peru

Peru: Machu Picchu, Iquitos and the Amazon River. Unusual choices for a honeymoon? 

Peru: Lima, Cusco and Machu Picchu. Unusual choices for a honeymoon? 

Inca Princess - Cusco, Peru  

Trekking Andes Mountains - Urubamba River Valley, Peru 

Me and My Llama - Peru 

Happy Guy - Wedding Guest in Urubamaba, Peru  

Trekking to Machu Picchu - Peru 

Inti Raymi Fireworks Celebration - Urabamba, Peru 

Interview with Travel Writer Jerome Shaw

A few months ago I was contacted by a college student, who asked if she could interview me about travel writing. Each month on Twitter and Facebook I receive questions from people wanting to break into travel writing, so I am publishing the Q&A in hopes that it will answer a few of the most common questions that those starting out in travel writing commonly ask.

Travel Writing & Photography Workshop and Tour 

Santa Fe, NM  December 11th - 14th, 2014

Interview with Travel Writer Jerome Shaw

• How did you start off your career as a travel writer? 

Oddly, I began my career in travel writing as a photographer.  I worked as the photographer as part of a team with travel writers.  I often traveled with the writers and photographed the places and experiences that they would eventually write about.  As budgets became more restricted many publications began sending only one person on the assignments and it wasn’t the photographer. Having worked with writers on travel stories over the years I saw how they worked on location and then read their finished articles.  This insider look at their processes gave me excellent training in travel writing. I began to both photograph and write on many assignments. 

• Why did you decide to pursue travel writing?

I enjoyed traveling and found the creative process involved in writing very satisfying.  To some degree it was an economic decision to combine travel writing with travel photography because of changes in the publishing industry. 

• What obstacles did you face breaking into the industry?

I met with some resistance having been a photographer for so many years. Some publications refused to accept me as a writer.  Travel writing is a very competitive field, especially for the well paid assignments for high circulation publications.  The move from print to electronic media has changed the landscape of travel writing greatly.  It is now easier than ever to be published but more difficult than ever to get paid well for being published.  If this trend continues the best talent young will naturally migrate away from the industry.

• What’s the best way to establish yourself if you’re starting off freelancing?

Create an excellent product, on time.  You will likely have to finance your own travel in the beginning or concentrate on local destinations.  You may also have to also accept low or no pay but I recommend you do as little of this as possible.  And never with the expectation that once you get your foot in the door with a publication by writing for free, that they will eventually hire you as a paid writer. This rarely happens.  Once you establish that you work for free or low rates it is very difficult to break out of that mold as far as an individual publication is concerned.  You’ll always be their low-cost option and the better paying assignments will go to writers that established early that they expected to be paid. Though, in the beginning you may have to allow some of your work to be published for little or no money to gain clips/samples to build your resume, chose these instances wisely.  

• What advice would you give to new travel writers?

Think about the place where you live as travel destination and produce travel pieces featuring your hometown.  This is a good way to produce low cost material that won’t break the bank if you don’t get top dollar for publication.

• What are common mistake travel writers make in their copy?

The mistake I make most often is to tell my readers how wonderful or terrible the travel experience was rather than show them what the experience was like.  

• How did you first get published?  

As a photographer I broke in with a Aspen Magazine in Aspen, Colorado illustrating features.  My first writing publication came early in my career when I was asked by Windsurfing Magazine to write 600-800 words to accompany my photographs of boardsailing in the spring in the Rocky Mountains.  It was a laborious, time consuming process for me to write that article.  For the time spent writing I would have made much better money shooting photographs. For the next fifteen years I declined writing assignments or passed them on to my writer friends.  

My first travel article publications were for an independent small market newspaper.  They were creating a new travel section and needed a reliable source of content.  I had a backlog of content from years of traveling as photographer and had seen the necessity to do add writing to my skill set.  We were a great fit.  

• Do you think it is necessary to have an agent?

No.  

While it may not be the best situation for travel

journalists the reality is most have to hone 

their skills in both writing and photography. We 

are re-entering the era of the "one man band" travel

journalist.  Soon we'll all have to add video

production to our skill set too.  

• Do you think travel writers should do their own photography? Why?

Funny you should ask.  I actually do not think they should but the reality is that they must in many cases do their own photos.  Especially in the early part of their career.  I still enjoy getting an assignment to do only the photography.  It allows me to focus one thing and do it well while the writer can concentrate on getting the details right and developing a complex story.  However, many publications simply do not have the budgets necessary to support two people traveling to a location and time necessary for them to create the article as a team.  

As a fledgling travel writer, especially working for on line publications, you will certainly be asked to create or provide photography to accompany your story. Becoming passable as a photographer is the least you should do.  If you really want to put yourself in a position to be in demand you should learn basic video production skills.

• Do you do any other writing besides for travel?

Yes.  I write social media and marketing copy.  I write promotional copy for brochures and website.  These are often for travel industry clients but not always.  

I write a lot of photo captions. I also write how-to photography articles.  I have in the past written for film and television projects.

• What is ‘good’ travel writing?

Writing that brings the location to life and draws the reader into the story being told while providing useful information is good travel writing.  The best travel writing shows, rather than tells the reader what the travel experience was like.  Everyone thinks that they can write travel even if they can’t write a business letter or a decent short story.  The best travel writing is personal without becoming a “what I did on my summer vacation” style of writing.  Good travel writing is just good writing.

• What is ‘bad’ travel writing?

Conversely, bad travel writing is just bad writing.  Two issues that are often part of bad travel writing are the use of cliched descriptions and overuse of adjectives, especially superlatives.  

• What are the benefits of being a travel writer?

Travel. More specifically travel with a purpose built in.  When traveling as a journalist you get access to people and situations that the average tourist or traveler does not get.  The satisfaction of being creative is also one of the benefits of being a travel writer. For me personally, meeting new people is one of the greatest benefits of my having become a travel journalist.

• What are the negative sides to being a travel writer?

Low pay and high competition are two definite drawbacks to being a travel writer. Travel writing is not a a high paying field except for a few elite writers. 

People also often equate travel with vacations. Traveling as a journalist has very little in common with vacation travel and much more in common with business travel.  It is a bit like living in resort town where most of the people visiting are there for a holiday but you have to get up and go to work while they play.  

• Anything else you want to add?

If you love to travel — get rich.  If you love to write — become a traveler. ~ Jerome Shaw

Links to other interviews with Jerome Shaw: 

Mode-Moderne Journal - Travel Photographer: Jerome Shaw  Seeing The World Through a Lens  

Job Shadow - Interview with a Travel Writer/Photographer